Prince William Sound Picture Project

I spent the summer of 2013 working on a fishery research vessel in Alaska's Prince William Sound. This was a truly formulative experience that changed me forever and bound the PWS to my soul. Over the years there have been so many beautiful moments that stood out from a larger story or adventure. After a decade hiatus, I'll continue updating this post with images from these beautiful moments.

2013
Looking north from Esther Rock, the entrance to College Fjord, Port Wells, is visible in the distance. Esther Rock means different things to different people. For the commercial fishermen, it is often the boundary of one of the salmon fisheries in the Sound. For others, it is a floating "internet cafe" of the Sound.


Glaciers are essentially mass balance problems - they transport snow and ice from higher elevations to lower elevations where it can melt. These Passage Canal glaciers extends over such a short elevation range; I love how even this minuscule change in elevation and distance is enough to produce ice dynamics. They are also rapidly disappearing.
 

Some people call those who live in Whittier WhitIdiots, those who live there part time are Half-Wits. But, how much of a dimwit can you be if you to choose live in a place that is not only so beautiful, but also has skiing 12 months of the year?

Aleutian Picture Project

The Aleutian Islands are a chain of 14 large volcanic islands, and 55 smaller ones extending in an arc westward 1,200 miles from the Alaskan Peninsula towards the Kamchatka Peninsula. It is a gnarly world of strong wind, heavy rain, ubiquitous fog, and people that probably aren't like you.

In my early 30s, I spent 5 years working on contaminated site cleanup projects in the Aleutians. Now I work on coastal engineering projects there; sometimes we even visit for fun. Like the Prince William Sound and Kanuti Picture Projects, this post is made up of unique and memorable moments that stand out. 

The islands are a punishing land, but a place of abundance. They are a major breeding ground for seabirds who nest on steep cliffs and rely on the rich marine environment for food. During the summer months, the archipelago becomes a vital stop for migratory species traveling between North America and Asia. The Aleutian cackling goose is an endemic subspecies of the Canada goose, notable for its smaller size and adapted to the harsh world of the Aleutians. Raptors including peregrine falcons, eagles, and hawks also call these windswept rocks home. The islands are affected by introduced species including cattle, caribou, foxes, and rats: the ecosystems and animals are visibly different on islands with introduced mammals.  


Aboard the C/V Miss Alyssa on the passage from Dutch Harbor to a project on Unalga Island, we encountered something unusual for the Aleutians: blue skies, light winds and calm seas. Dutch Harbor averages 80 inches of rain, 250 rainy days, and 150 days of fog per year. Meanwhile, powerful Pacific storms batter the islands throughout the year with gale-force winds, typhoons, and dangerous storm surges.


With the exception of some stunted willows, the vast majority of the chain is devoid of native trees. On some of the islands, there are a few coniferous trees left over from the Russians. Aleutian conifers, some up to two hundred years old, rarely reach even 10 feet tall because the winds here like to snap off anything taller.

Eklutna to Pioneer - 8.17.2024

Its been about a decade since the last time Tarah and I followed the gorgeous rolling ridges from Eklutna Lake to Pioneer. During that time it has stayed fresh in my mind as a special treat to return to. Finally, in August 2024, Nyssa and I left the shuttle car on the shoulder next to the packed Pioneer Ridge Trailhead and retraced our tire tracks up the steep winding road to the lake.

There was just a hint of the sharp fall smell of cranberries as we left the parking lot behind and hiked up the switchbacks towards Pepper Peak. Above the birch forest, the otherworldly aquamarine waters of Eklutna Lake stretched away from us. Across the lake, Thunderbird Ridge mirrored our plans for the day. I think it’s one of the best ridges around here; and ties into Peters Creek—a place that feels about as wild and untamed as any corner of Southcentral AK.


Its a hoof up Pepper, and I was ready for a quick lunch at the top. We looked west past Palmer towards the Talkeetna Mountains where we have so many hiking, paddling, and skiing memories.


My eyes were drawn to the Sheep Glacier, where I had a relatively unsuccessful ski trip years ago.

Nellie Juan Skiing - April 2024

Spring in the Prince William Sound is a time of contrasts that I look forward to each year: deep snow, vibrant blue waters, and endless adventure. This past April, Nyssa, Scott, Emrys, and I set out for a weekend of skiing, shrimping, and exploring the dynamic terrain of Port Nellie Juan.

After surviving the usual Whittier mayhem of the tunnel, parking, and the boat ramp, we leave the harbor behind and motor down Passage Canal and then across Port Wells. The wake of the boat chases us as we turn right and slip into the sheltered waters of Culross Passage.

Photo: Emrys Hall

At the end of the passage, the glassy waters of Nellie Juan spread away from us as we set our shrimp pots. There’s always the sense of mystery when dropping the pots into depths - wondering whether they’ll yield a haul of prawns, a few baby tanner crabs, a pile of mud, or something unexpected.

Photo: Emrys Hall

With the pots soaking, we skin into the temperate rainforest. The snowpack is deep, etched with rain runnels, and uncooperative underfoot - a slippery ascent through the trees that is a laugh-filled start to the tour.

Photo: Emrys Hall

B-Peaks Ski Traverse - April 2024

Since moving to Anchorage a decade ago, the East Fork Eklutna valley has held a place in my mind and tugged at me. Over the years we've explored the peaks around the yawning mouth of the drainage, but the upper basin has waited out of reach. With a scheduled traverse from Seward to Homer kiboshed by uncertain weather and my tight work schedule, Nyssa, Heather, Lars and I "compromised" with a loop through the dramatic gorges of the towering B Peaks.

The trip started on a sunny Saturday morning in the Eklutna parking lot where we swung on our loaded packs and skated onto the lake. Days of spring sun and clear nights had metamorphosed the surface into a hard and fast crust which we cruised across as Chad and his smiling golden retriever skated laps around us.


At the east end of the lake we chased the crust upstream until the skating became a contact sport. Then, we crashed through the scarred deadfall remains of the old wildfire until crawling out onto the road at the East Fork trailhead. We skinned over exposed rocks and walked along the melted-out dirt of the spring trail as the shady walls of the giant gorge closed in above us.

We had ventured into this giant canyon several times, but it seemed even more breathtaking than before. Perhaps it was the intention to pass through it that had me seeing the length of the valley and truly experiencing the scale of the beast.


From high on the cliff walls above us, we could see goats perched on impossibly small ledges. Turned to the scale of moving white dots by the mountains that they inhabit, it felt like we'd entered another world. 

Zero Bowl - 11.11.2024

Early season skiing is a challenge for me: the snowpack is thin, there's limited beta, and I'm so hungry. These factors have led to close calls for me, those I care about, and our incredible community, and it makes me hesitant to head out. The reports of quality conditions and stability have been trickling in, and it was time for us to set aside our piles of chores and head for the hills. 

After a late start, we drove south past the snowy peaks of the Chugach and the Kenai mirrored in the still waters of Turnagain Arm, and chatted about ideas for the day. Usually, we go into each day with so much recent beta and many ideas, it was fun to start this one with a blank slate. By the time we were nearing the top of Turnagain Pass and pulling into the DOT lot, we had a plan: we'd go check out the sunny bowls, chutes, and ribs of Seattle Ridge.

Skinning up the icy uptrack, my stoke and excitement built as we caught dogs and friends enjoying the winter wonderland of a beautiful sunny day on our public lands. Cresting the ridge, we looked across the arm at the iconic ski lines crowning Girdwood, Peterson Creek, and Twentymile. We talked about our favorite adventures past and our dreams for the future in these magical valleys.